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  • Control Arm Removal

    Bit of backstory: My brakes were horrible and the rotors were just thin discs of rust. I decided to replace the control arms (balljoints) while I had the front end apart to change the rotors and pads.
    However, between me, my mom, her boyfriend, and a local mechanic shop, no one has been able to remove the control arms.

    The pivot bolts at the frame are the issue. The passenger side one just spins, as does its nut inside the frame. The driver's side bolt has yet to give- even to an impact wrench.
    The shop I took the car too (after putting the knuckles back on to drive it over there) said they can't do it and to take it to a place with a lift. They suggested Les Schwab, which I had called the day before for a quote. They want at least $150 per side, with their parts. I already have the parts.
    My neighbor suggested cutting the frame enough to access the nut, as did the guy at the shop.
    Should I get the neighbor to cut the frame and remove the control arms? I realize cutting a frame/chassis (whatever it is as this car is of monocoque construction and with no engine subframe...) could be dangerous to the strength and structure of the vehicle, but would a small amount to allow access to the control arm nut hurt anything?
    Also, have any of you Festivians run into this issue or have a suggestion for another route?
    ~Austin
    Red 88 L (Ocho)

  • #2
    It wouldn't bother me a bit to cut it.....not nearly as unsafe as bad LCA's...

    Maybe you could drill a hole big enough to get a stitch weld on the nut...... The heat from that would also help with removal.
    Last edited by jmye1524; 04-22-2010, 07:04 PM.
    ........... With a lever long enough and a place to stand, you could move the world..........

    ..................Build thread.................http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=29547

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    • #3
      you should be able to peel a section apart just past the rear most flat of the C channel portion. there is a small spot weld, just spread it apart with a chisel or something. then hammer it back when you are done.
      89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
      94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
      2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
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      • #4
        for the one that is stuck, use a torch or similar to heat it up, a bit.. you did try wd40, pb blaster etc already right? once you get it hot it should break itself free due to heat expansion

        on the other hand, today i found that my passenger side bolt decided to back itself out, so i had to get it back in and that was fun.
        Last edited by MTec007; 04-22-2010, 07:22 PM.

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        • #5
          forget the wd40....PB Blaster all the way.....not sure how it could be that they can not break the bolt loose with an impact....the cage on the nut should have at least broke loose.
          On the one that is loose cut the head off the bolt and push it into the frame. There is room to get a nut up inside there and put a new bolt through the lca and into the frame...allowing you to tighten the bolt.
          Let the other bolt soak for a couple days if needed ,with pb blaster...keep applying and trying for that time....plus the heat would help too.
          If it breaks loose great...if not...put a breaker bar on it and hopefully you can break the weld on the cage and then push it into the frame and do the same as the other side.
          Yes I have done this and it works great.
          "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
          89L Silver EFI auto
          91GL Green Auto DD
          There ain't no rest for the wicked
          until we close our eyes for good.
          I will sleep when I die!
          I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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          • #6
            Same thing happened to me. I cut the majority of the arm off so it was out of the way. I then used an angle grinder and systematicaly cut at what was left till there was a half moon of the arm left. I was then able to punch the rest off the bolt and remove said bolt. I thought that heat would do it...or the 12 gallons of the various brands of wd-40 like products....but no. I never had to cut the frame rail. I found that it was not seized in the cage nut but rather in the arm itself


            -Scott
            Aqua 93 L
            Razor Red 09 F-150 XLT
            White 06 Ford Escape XLT

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            • #7
              Had similar issue.
              Used a reciprocating and cut the the pivot bolt into three pieces by making two cuts.
              One on both sides of the control arm.
              The bolt head then drop outs as does the control arm and you punch out the remains of the bolt with the caged nut attached.
              No cutting of the frame/chassis needed.
              Remember to clean out any bits and pieces of the cage that held the nut so they do not interfere with the new flared nut which will take its place.
              '93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
              '93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
              '92 Aqua parts Car
              '93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
              '90 White LX Thanks to FB71

              "Your God of repentance will not save you.
              Your holy ghost will not save you.
              Your God plutonium will not save you.
              In fact...
              ...You will not be saved!"

              Prince of Darkness -1987

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              • #8
                ^Very good solution.^ This would also work with a similar problem with rear strut bolts.

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                • #9
                  Thank you all for your suggestions.
                  I will try the last one of cutting the bolt into pieces first. If unsuccessful or unable to do that one, I'll move on to another.
                  Thanks again
                  ~Austin
                  Red 88 L (Ocho)

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