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  • Moses Build thread

    So this is the thread about building my car better for the trip I plan to make in 2017. Here is the link to what I am planning for the trip and the trailer thread, I am starting on the trailer first: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...d=1#post717250

    http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...of-a-Lifetime!

    I think I will start with some history about this car, since its the main reason for this trip. I thought about it and i wouldn't want to do this trip in another kind of vehicle, I like festivas a lot as does my wife and we both really like mine in particular. If you just want to read just my plans skip down a ways.

    I bought the car May 7, 2007 with 219,340km on it (198,430 miles) from a guy who thought it was ready to die. I owned a 150cc scooter at the time, had driven it all winter in the snow to work, and was looking for a car. I saw a guy pulling out of our church parking lot in a cool looking car one day, so the next sunday I asked him what it was and if he would consider selling it. He said he would think about it. Next sunday he goes ' you were going to buy it right? I went and bought another car so want to come buy it?' I had only seen the back end of it leaving a parking lot so I was a bit worried, but went and looked at it and bought it from him for $700 when I was 16 years old. It was my first car. It had a new exhaust behind the cat and he told me that 3rd gear was its power gear and he liked using that one on the freeway because it went pretty good. I soon put a loud muffler and tachometer on it and realized the guy probably had been redlining it a lot... He told me it didnt burn oil. I changed the oil, replaced both headlights which were burnt out from holes in the headlamp glass, replaced spark plugs, changed coolant, pcv valve and front pads. The longest drive I had ever done was maybe 200km at once before this, Then 2 weeks after I bought it I drove 230km to get new tires, a new record! The day after that I left on a 2200km (1350 mile) solo round trip to visit some old friends where I used to live in central B.C. That was a lot of fun but I ran the engine out of oil going through the rockies. Either it had burned oil before or the powerful fuel cleaner I put in the tank cleaned things out good. Borrowed some 15w40 from a trucker who stopped and it was using a liter every 600km after that. I had a lot of fun with that car that summer, got amazing fuel milage, raced a lot of people, It could go anywhere! Then that fall my employer got me to put 2 huge concrete septic tank extension tubes in the back of it and follow him through what I believe is the biggest city in our province. I had never driven through a big city before, wasnt the greatest driver yet, had no map or clue where I was or was going and he didn't wait up for me at all. After that the engine was going through a litre every 300km, so 2 litres of oil every tank of gas. I wasn't ok with that anymore, It was cool that it would shoot oil 5 feet out the tailpipe in the winter and make a big black line in the snow but that was about it. New oil went completely black less than 60km after an oil change. So over Christmas break off school I bought a used motor for $425 and new clutch and changed the motor and clutch in our barn with the help of my brother and the good old haynes manual. We lifted the motor and transmission out using a fencepost and a chain standing on 5 gallon pails The new motor was good, oil stayed golden for quite some time. I painted stripes on it and ever since people recognize me as soon as they see the car. Even if they havent seen me in 5 or 6 years, they still know its me and wave. In 2008 I bought a tow hitch for it, in 2009 I installed a bypass oil filter, then had a large set of scaffolding 3 stories tall with the big ladders on it blow over onto my roof. Crushed it pretty good. Paid to have that fixed. Later on I replaced a door and fender that were damaged by vandalism. I did a lot with the car: made a couple long road trips, towed a fair bit, got tire chains and did a lot of off-roading. Its amazing in deep snow. Pulled a lot of people out of the ditch, I got stuck in a lake, had it on 2 wheels twice-not intending to either time by the way. Went to the track for the 1/4 mile a bunch, 'street' raced a bit out in the country, did a lot of drifting in the winter on oil leases and back roads with my brother who had a cavalier at the time. Then It was our honeymoon car when I got married, we did a 2600km road trip in it for our honeymoon, lots of fun. I had bought a house about 8 months before getting married and decided to renovate the whole thing-the festiva being my trusty truck. I pulled a tree out with it... But I decided I needed a 'more reliable' car since I was getting married and all. Festiva had only let me down twice, both times being my fault (broken coolant hose and wire under battery corroded through from battery always boiling over) but i somehow thought I needed a better car. I was working in autobody and had decided to start fixing write-offs, I picked the 2001-2005 honda civic as the vehicles I would fix. Long story short my first 2 cost more to fix than I could sell them for so I started driving one myself. I have now had 4 and they do not even hold a match to the festiva. So many design flaws, stupid things that go wrong all the time, not fun to drive, uncomfortable, tow worse than a festiva, expensive to fix and they have no soul. I started driving them in the winter and the festiva in the summer because i lacked heat in the festiva in the winter. I actually froze my knees one winter- we had a week of below -30c and i had to drive 2 hours a day with no heat... Anyway, I figured I would completely stop maintaining the festiva except for oil changes and tires and wait for it to die, then drive only the civics. Well 3 years later nothing had gone wrong with the festiva and i think I had been through 3 civics by then. I decided to catch up on its maintinance, fix its heat issues and drive it full time in the winter too. That was around June 2014 and I spent a lot of money on maintinance, quite a bit of it being trying to get the heat to work, but I got caught up and drove it in the 2014 and 2015 winter. Some things suffered a lot from lack of maintinance though, I went 130,000km (81k miles) on used copper plugs and the porcelin broke off one and scored up the cylinder. The gaps were all huge, it would start on 2 cylinders, go to 3 and the 4th one with the broken porcelin would take until the engine warmed up and it could detonate on its own basically. I didnt change the coolant for 136,000km (85k miles) and that showed...I had leaking transaxil seals but didnt want to change them. I just added oil once a month. well I forgot one month and ran it right out and seiezed it on the side of the road, it just ground to a halt. Filled it back up with fluid and it just kept going, only lost 5mpg. I have since siezed it twice again by running it out of fluid. I put a lot of kilometers on that car, the first 3 years I had it I did 30,000km/yr (18,600 miles), then the year I met Julie who is now my wife I drove 47,000km (29k miles), then for 3 years I just drove it in the summer because of the civics so that was 10-13,000km/yr (8k miles) but I am back to just over 30k a year again. It has 448,600km (279k miles) right now and should have 480,000km by the time we start the trip and 510,000km (317k miles) when we are done. I have kept every receipt for everything I ever bought for the car, kept careful track of all maintenance, figured out the gas milage for every tank, kept careful track of what I have spent on it. Over its lifetime including buying it, replacing the motor and clutch, a brutal $500 hitch install when I was young and dumb, repairs from the scaffolding and vandalism, parts cars, and every tool I have ever bought for cars-(which is a lot) it has averaged 4.8 cents per kilometer (3.6 cents/km in USD or 5.8 cents per mile in USD) on costs other than gasoline and insurance. Which is super cheap, that was november 2015 and I have hardly spent anything on it since then. A lot of the cost was from 2014 when I did a ton of maintinance, it will be even lower now because I havent done much on it since. Thats $10,415 CAD in 8 1/2years and 216,000km as of last November. As comparison I got my civic quite cheap and 10 years younger and its still 10 cents/km. Anyway, I love the car and wish it could last forever but it is showing its age unfortunately.

  • #2
    The first year I had it! thats my brother.


    painting the stripes the following year




    trips to B.C where I used to live. This was may second about 5km from where I used to live.

    thats as far as we could go here so we started hiking. 3km later the snow was over waist deep in the ditches. The camera does not show how steep this is at all...


    we had a clay road near our place, 5 inches of rain... could barely steer and so much mud built up around the tires that the rears quit turning. Had to be pulled out, this was pre-tire chains




    mudding at work...


    needed chains to deliver some appliances:


    ready to rock

    Comment


    • #3
      we spent a decent amount of time exploring quad trails. could navigate powder up to the headlights






      hauled quite well even in deep snow and on icy roads, we had a blast!




      chromed rims! well aluminum paint anyway


      had a bad headwind pulling that, was an interesting haul though!


      stuck in a lake on a boat launch for half an hour. Water coming through the floorboards


      Comment


      • #4
        stopping to grease the trailer wheel bearings while delivering a freezer


        renovating the house



        the porcelin that fell off my spark plug


        getting married






        out exploring on our honeymoon. Climbed that mountain in the back.


        went down some trails with 6 foot tall saplings




        toast!
        Last edited by ryanprins13; 05-23-2016, 09:31 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          So this is my plan to make it ready for this trip. I need to do a fair bit of work to it. The unfortunate part is that I kind of plan to stop driving it after this trip. I have to stop sometime... and it would be a good way to end. I want to keep the car as stock as possible, I love this car the way it is and want it to stay mostly the same for the trip. I will be doing this with the stock B3, I want to say I crossed Canada in a tiny car with 63hp pulling a big trailer. I wanted to keep 12 inch tires at first but that is one thing I will give up on.
          The car kind of needs an overhaul front to back but I will try and keep my plans here organized.
          Tires:
          I have 145/80 R12 on it now, I also use 155/80 R12 but for this trip I want something with a wider contact patch and shorter sidewall for more stability. I tried a bunch of 175/70 R13 tires once and really did not like them because of a lack of power and traction so I took them off pretty quick. that is the only experience with bigger tires I have. I still have those steel rims that I can use, so obviously no cost from them. I would be looking at either a 165/65 tire or a 165/60R13 for them. The smaller one being 98.6% of proper size and the larger being 101.5%. However I have a question for those who have used different tire sizes- is reducing the sidewall by 1 inch enough for increased stability? Or should I go to 14 inch rims for a 2 inch reduction? Are 14's worth it over 13's? Remembering that I would have to buy 14 in rims, use them for 3 months and I will park the car after this trip. I would get 165/55 R14 tires if I go with 14's. I still have to call local tire shops to see what is available and what their prices are. I will have to buy them this summer as they tend to only stock winter tires over the winter and I dont want to leave it till last minute next year. I want to buy 5 in case I get a flat and take an extra one along. I have a spare steel 13 in rim, but if I go with 14's I would bring my donut and just the rubber for the 14in. How long do these tires last? I have only bought 1 set of new 12 inch ones and they only lasted 34,000km or so, so I never bought another new set, just always got them at wreckers. So what kind of life can I expect out of 13's or 14's if I set the alignment good beforehand?

          transmission:
          I have seized my transmission several times, axil seals leak bad and where the shift linkage goes in leaks. I bought a used transmission that I will install this fall, I will put new transaxil seals in it, new clutch kit I got off ebay cheap, run atf in it for a couple thousand kilometers then put GM syncromesh in it before this trip. People seem to like that stuff. Lots of people like redline and amsoil, but I think I will go with the GM syncromesh. I am open to any debate on that however I will hope that my cv shafts are still good. They are fine now, one was new about 190,000km ago and the other one was used off another car 150,000km or so ago I think. I am debating weather or not i should pull the boots back and re-grease them or not. Worth it if there is nothing wrong now? If they are making any noise right before the trip I will replace them, but if not they should be good for 30,000km (18k miles) right? My engine and transmission mounts are new. I hope my flywheel is ok, but I wont know until I replace the transmission.

          cooling system:
          I wrote in the thread about the trailer as to why I think the stock radiator will be fine. I wont know for sure until later this summer when I will replace my thermostat with a new dual-element and try to overheat it and see what happens. I may get a high speed fan for it if I am a bit unsure. I will install a coolant temperature gauge. Either I will splice it into the upper rad hose or install it in the fan switch location and move the fan switch to the sensor on the bottom of the radiator like icedawg suggested. I will look into running a 60/40 or 70/30 mixture of water and glycol (less glycol than water) for increased cooling and look into coolant additives like 'water wetter'. I am considering bypassing the heater core to keep the cabin of the car cooler in the summer. May get some cold days though so I am not sure. I got some new coolant hoses so they will all be in good condition. My heater core and radiator are both in good shape and have been cleaned last fall with hydrocloric acid and CLR. I have a new water pump installed 2 years ago.
          I will make sure the engine and transmission are completely free of grease and dirt to aide in cooling before the trip.
          Considering modifications to the grille and/or bumper to get more airflow, but I am not sure how to do so without it looking stupid yet.
          Engine oil is a big part of the cooling system so I will include it here. I plan to install an oil temperature gauge even though I probably do not need to. I already have an oil pressure gauge. I used to have a bypass filter but removed it to put on my civic years back. I am thinking of re-installing it. It will help keep the oil cleaner so it lasts longer for this trip but more importantly it will add 1 litre to the oil capacity (30% increase). That lets the oil last a lot longer and reduces temperature swings if this engine has that, it helps in cooling the oil obviously as well. I plan to use 5w30 or 0w30 synthetic oil that is meant for diesel trucks. I want to use synthetic for obvious reasons of better durability and it lasting longer. I have always used conventional oil, but I want to be able to go 15,000km or so on an oil change with confidence on this trip. I want to change it just before I leave and then only once in the middle of the trip. When I was pulling the u-haul and getting the coolant temperature way up I had conventional 5w30 oil almost ready to be changed in there and the pressure barely dropped, it stays at 46-49 psi at 100km/hr in 5th and the oil pressure relief valve opens on the pump at 50psi, so I don't believe a 5w40 will help me. The oil being rated for a diesel specification means it has a much thicker viscosity under high shear and high temperature than a gasoline oil of the same 5w30 rating, thats what I want. I may install a sandwich adapter to use my oil temperature gauge by the full flow filter and that would allow me to use a much bigger oil filter. Higher flow, more dirt holding capacity, more cooling...

          Engine:
          My engine is old and tired but still going strong. I have a lot of blow by and have a catch can installed between the pcv valve and intake. However I am still getting a lot of oil blowing up the other hose and filling my intake tubing with oil. I have bought a second catch can and will install it there. The oil makes my idle terrible and lowers the octane rating of your fuel mixture, reduces power so I need that taken care of because I need all the power I can get. I need to replace my main crankshaft seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and I may as well do my camshaft seal. My timing belt is new enough to last the trip but I will check the tightness. New air filter beforehand, new spark plug wires and new copper spark plugs. My research has led me to believe that copper plugs are best for spark and power, their downside is not lasting as long before needing to be gapped. So i will take an extra 4 with me and change them out half way. They are like $2 each on Rockauto. I will do a compression test before I leave and when I come back to compare and see if it got worse I am debating about weather to take my fuel injectors out and clean them. I have always put good gas in, changed my fuel filter on time (its pretty new right now) and my gas tank is clean inside. I don't really want to buy all the new seals and risk them leaking or damage them while cleaning. Thoughts? I plan to have a good exhaust by the time I leave, I need it to be quiet. I currently dont have a resonater and my muffler broke off, I almost went deaf pulling that u-haul and my trailer around. 3rd gear floored at 55mph all the way up a long hill with no muffler or resonator and the sound bouncing back off a trailer is insanely loud. Gonna have my 2 kids and wife in here so It has to be quiet but flow good for power.
          The other thing is what I have been reading about the throttle position sensor. I have a manual trans so it has a setting for idle fuel adjustment, wot and whatever is in between- just 3 settings. I noticed it right when I bought the car driving through mountains that if I floored it it seemed to almost loose power just slightly. So I would floor it then back off just a little bit to go up hills. What I am reading here tells me that when the tps reads wide open throttle it sends extra fuel for a richer mixture as a safety thing. Is my understanding correct? Can I disconnect just the wot position so it only sense idle and inbetween? Is that safe and will it allow me better fuel economy and power with it floored?

          Comment


          • #6
            Body, Chassis:
            I am thinking of reinforcing the front rad support as mentioned on this site. I have to find and read through the articles about how to do it again. This car even stock has a stupid amount of torque steer. When pulling a trailer uphill and I shift from full throttle in 4th to full throttle in 3rd or back again the car really moves around. Especially 3rd when I let off the gas to shift. I want that to be less. I presume the 165 tires with less sidewall will help correct? The stiffening of the rad support will help right? Or is it all from the tiny cv shafts?

            I need to reinforce or build a better hitch. I currently have the curt one. Thinking of making or buying one like Alaskafestivaguy has. If anyone has one I can buy or can let me know where I can get one made that would be great! My rear steel bumper is in ok shape but not pristine. Debating right now weather to reinforce it or buy a new one. The tongue weight of the trailer should be around 170-200 pounds on this trip.
            I am thinking of covering the rust with rock gaurd and seam sealer then quickly repainting my whole car. Would look better and attract less attention from law enforcement I think. Its more annoying with the stripes though, but I need to keep them, thats how my car has been for so long. May replace my rear bumper cover, I have one in better shape.

            By far the biggest uncertainty I have with this car is what to do about the suspension. I have newer oem replacement struts in the back, fronts are still good but have about 100,000km I think, so I plan to replace them anyway for better handling and braking. Its springs I dont know about. I have tried to read a lot about suspension on this forum but there is so insanely much said about it and its all for racing. I want this to tow a trailer nicely for 3 months and then I park it. I have a B3 in the stock location of course, I weigh 160 pounds, wife a little more but not much, rear seat installed, kids should be 45 and 25 pounds (we have skinny kids) carseats are like 10-15 pounds each. Then a small cooler of food, a bunch of tools and spare parts, some clothes, laptop and stuff in the car. Plus 170-200 pounds of tongue weight from the trailer. If you divide my and my wifes weight in half over the front and rear axils and add everything else to the rear that is 170 pounds on the front and 550 pounds on the rear axil over empty car weight. That is if we put our bikes on the trailer which I am really hoping. So, conclusions I came to so far is that I should put the festiva front springs on the back of my festiva. I have 2 parts cars so I have some. A bunch of people say they have done this yet one guy says you need to cut them or you will blow your struts, is that true? Will Festiva front springs be enough for what I want to do? Is there a better option? I read about aspire springs being used, but will festiva ones work just as well since I have them? Will I need different struts or will the oem ones I have work well? I have tried to look this up, The beginning of my intro thread mentioned why I haven't gotten as far as I wanted, but everyone is doing this for racing it seems. I want a nice smooth comfortable ride while towing a heavy trailer, thats all. I will get new bellows and bump stops or whatever they are called too. On the front should I change to different springs? seems to me like there is hardly any more weight up there until you hit the brakes and get weight transfer. If I should put stiffer springs up there I am willing to, but what is best for cheapest? I plan to replace my struts anyway so what would be best if I kept stock springs and what would be best if I replace springs if you are suggesting that I do? I need new strut mounts and I hear the kia rio ones work better so I will look at threads about that. Sorry for all the questions about suspension, I really did plan to have this more figured out by now....
            As of now the only work I pay shops to do on my cars are wheel alignments. I would like that to change since they screw even that up. I have to look at threads on here about what to buy to do it myself and then try to figure out what numbers I want for the best combination of drivability and low tire wear while towing.

            As far as brakes I am really impressed with how well the stock brakes stop a trailer. Like I said in my trailer thread, They stop a 900 pound u-haul just as good or better than my civic which has all new brake components. Wheels lock and I presume a wider 165 tire will help tremendously with that as well as better suspension for doing proper weight transfer. All I have to worry about is brake fade down long grades. I know enough about hauling loads that are too heavy to know quite a few things about what to do and not do to avoid brake fading or loosing control otherwise. I just put new pads on the front last fall, might replace them just before the trip, I dont know, I will check them right before. Rear drums have seen the lathe so I will buy new ones from rockauto probably so I have the full thickness for best heat control. I will check local prices first. Any brands to look for or to avoid? Also have new shoes on there now but would probably put a new set on just before again. With new drums I will get new bearings and seals of course. Right before the trip I will grease everything I need to with the brakes and clean them. I will flush out the brake system so it has all new fluid. I may replace some brake lines, have not decided for sure yet. One rear wheel cylinder is new and I will replace the other before the trip. Hardware kits are new. Then on hilly areas I will just start steeper descents at a lower speed, put it in 4th gear right away, 3rd if need be. when you need to brake you use the brakes hard and quick, let yourself get to a speed thats a bit fast, then slam on the brakes, slow way down, get your rpms up high and let off the brakes. Let them cool as you speed back up and then repeat when you reach too high of a speed. I know my maximum upshift speeds, can slow right down to 65km/hr and put it in second gear if things get real steep. However with that u-haul the wind drag was so high that when I put the car in neutral at 62mph going down the biggest hill I found it just held its speed, didn't speed up or slow down. I plan to build my trailer slightly more aerodynamic but I do not expect this to be a big deal. I will stop a couple times on this trip to clean my brakes. I will bring my IR temperature gun along to check brake and tire temperature along the way. I plan to make a stop half way in Ontario at some relatives and change oil, re-grease and clean brakes, see if the pads/shoes need replacement, grease tie rod ends, maybe re-grease rear bearings and stuff like that. If I feel I need more braking power after the may long weekend 2017 trial run I will install brakes on the trailer. I feel that would be simpler, faster and better than a Kia rio brake swap.

            Where the rear axil bolts to the frame looks alright to me in case anyone was wondering. Its not in perfect shape, but the axil will not fall off. I have a bunch of dents in my fuel tank from off-roading years back. I got a replacement and will install it before this trip even though it looks like a huge pain. I will also replace the sock/strainer on the fuel pump. It does not look like there is an option for a larger tank on the festiva, which blows. There have been a few threads about it and no good options I have seen. If anyone has Ideas about how to increase fuel capacity on the car, rather than storing fuel in the trailer I would love to hear it. I do not want to reduce aerodynamics ( no gerry cans strapped to the roof) or reduce airflow to the radiator or engine ( no platform on the front of the car unless it can be done in a way that does not reduce airflow to rad). Depending on how aerodynamic I build my trailer I will only have a range of 350km at 30mpg. One extra 25L gerry can gets me 610km combined which is acceptable, but it weighs 41 pounds and has to be stored in the trailer-most likely on the tongue- which is getting heavy already. If I manage 40mpg then its not so bad, thats 500km on a tank and 780km with a 20L gerry can which weighs 33 pounds.

            Comment


            • #7
              Spare parts to bring:
              I have a bad habit of bringing a lot of spare parts when I drive. I never have to use them, but you never know right? So On this trip I will bring just the tools I need. I will go over the car and figure out what tools I need to: gap and replace spark plugs, replace O2 sensor, service brakes, change alternator, timing belt, fan belt, thermostat, water pump, cv shafts, fuel pump, changing oil, change tires, funnel for atf, tire patch kit and air pump, voltmeter, electrical tools, small floor jack, no scissor jack for me. Have a jug of engine oil, 1quart of coolant, quart of syncromesh, some brake fluid. Also a fire extinguisher, tire chains, tow rope and a come along in case I go somewhere I shouldn't which I also have a habit of doing.
              Spare parts I will bring: spark plugs, Extra alternator, Old fan belt, Old timing belt, Extra distributor, Extra O2 sensor, Fuel pump, Spare car and trailer tire, Spare old thermostat and new gasket, spare rad cap, spare coil, spare fuel injector 2, fuses and fuseable links.


              Interior:
              Going to tint the back 3 windows (illegal to do the fronts and i will be a cop magnet on this trip i am sure)
              I bought an a/c setup from jfd64 plan to install it, get some cooled seat covers and gel cushions for my wife. There are online threads about cooling for kids car seats but I will see how good the a/c is first, hopefully don't need that. Install a 2500 watt dc to ac inverter in the car, run ac and dc power to the trailer. Have a good camera and videocamera as well as a small laptop to transfer photos too. Might borrow my brothers gopro for the trip. Perhaps a gps as google maps on our phones uses a lot of data. I will have Tons of paper maps of everywhere we will be going but I will do all the driving and will have to spend a fair bit of time teaching my wife to read maps... Might get a cell phone booster antennae, perhaps a handheld 2-way radio as cb's are obsolete here i think. Gonna put sound deadener in the doors, side quarter panels, rear hatch and floor. I wasnt going to do the firewall but I think I have to take the dash out anyway to install the a/c. I have a good stereo, with bluetooth, usb and aux inputs, hands free calling so we are set there- but bad speakers, have to fix that. Need to find some good ones and will have to download tons of music. I have an old dashcamera buts its starting to get a bit funny so I will buy a new one. I plan to mount the inverter inside the car kind of behind the glovebox area above the passenger feet somewhere. I will replace the car battery with the biggest and highest capacity thing I can find and I will run large wires with a fuse to the inverter from it. Then from the inverter I will run decent sized wires to a terminal block, fuse beforehand of course. Then from there I can wire charging ports for phones, camera, laptop, 2-way and so on. Run power to my dashcamera and the cooled seatcovers. Also run power to the trailer from it for charging the battery back there. If we get a gps I want to get a nice mount for it. They are nice for steep hills in the mountains-my wife can tell me if there is a sharp bend coming up, and they are usually easier to figure out than a map while driving. Need to make sure there is a good dash or window mount for a phone for my wife if we end up using that for gps. She will use the phone while I am driving to see whats in the next town, where we are going to stop next, where gas is, find campsites, find places to look at and bring the kids and so on. I will bring an extension cord so we can use some 120v things out of the car like a toaster and laptop charger. I will run 120v power from the inverter to the trailer too. My roof leaks when its parked in the rain so I have to fix that, need to replace my windshield. I need to install lap belts in the rear for the car seats and rear anchors.
              As for the inverter I had considered installing a bigger alternator but i don't think I need to. I was originally going to use a cooler full of ice with a fan as a/c in the car and have an icemaker along, but I wont need to now thanks to jdf64 for selling me the a/c setup. The coolers in the trailer need power, but they only draw 1-4 amps on 12 volt. I need to run an electric air pump every night to fill air matresses, empty them in the morning, also to fill and empty our boat and car trailer tires if they develop slow leaks. The water pump for the shower is 12v but only takes 1.5-2.5 amps. The cooled seats and phone and camera chargers do not take much. Our toaster takes a lot, its 800 watts I think which is like 60 amps at 14.4 volts. I have a 750 watt inverter now and it will make 4 slices of toast, then the internals overheat from the 50 amps over what its supposed to do. The car idle drops a lot but runs it. Thats my biggest power draw, so a 2500 watt inverter is overkill but I got it at a garage sale cheap. Our stock alternator is rated at 50 amps, I think mine put out 70 when I tested it last. 50 amps at 14.4 volts is 700 watts and 70 is 1000 watts. You loose with inverters, i think they are only 85% efficient, but my toaster is the biggest thing I will run and I will have a big battery like I said so I should be fine. The air pump probably takes a fair bit too, but not as much as a toaster I am sure. I plan to raise my idle a bit on the car, probably to 1000 or 1100 rpm so I dont have to worry about it dropping and shutting off.




              So, here is a list of parts I am looking at buying. If you happen to live within a few hours of us or are going to Westiva and want to sell me something on this list that would be cool! The more expensive it is the farther I am willing to travel if you have a good deal. its awkward to ask, but if any of you are willing to let me use something for a summer and then I give it back that would be cool! Like I said before, I am parking the car after this trip and I am trying to do this on a budget and I don't have a lot of money to put towards this. I really wish I did.

              * New windshield. I think that cost is mostly labour though as I will pay to have it installed
              * Rear 3 windows tinted.
              * rear shoes and drums
              * New bearings and seals for rear drums
              * suspension setup- New front strut mounts, new front struts, new bumpers and bellows for rear and whatever else.
              * Transmission seals
              * high speed rad fan?
              * rad cap and dual element thermostat
              * New set of 5 tires either 13in or 14in. If 14 inch also need rims
              * New rear steel bumper, or reinforce mine a bunch
              * tow hitch like alaskafestivaguy has
              * Deep cycle, highest capacity battery possible for in the festiva. Also want one for the trailer and to use for a boat motor
              * New brake lines to the back?
              * Fix both fromt seats from rocking somehow
              * Cooled seat covers http://www.ebay.ca/itm/All-Weather-3...x~&vxp=mtr
              * car seat a/c http://www.instructables.com/id/Liqu...bies/?ALLSTEPS
              * new Copper spark plugs, 8
              * Cell phone booster antenna ( do they even work?)
              * 2 way radio.
              * better speakers
              * paper maps of Canada that are current
              * fuel sock and seals
              * new air filter
              * new plug wires
              * stuff to do my own wheel alignment
              * camshaft and crankshaft seals
              * oil pan gasket
              * new caliper boots
              * dashcamera http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Original-Vehi...sAAOSwNphWZSuq
              * laptop in good shape, not too big
              * good quality digital camera
              * voice recorder

              Comment


              • #8
                Stock Festiva brakes were never designed to stop 3500 - 4000 lbs in normal situations, so how do you think they will do in an emergency? Animals are unpredictable, for example. You should do an Aspire brake swap, because you will need all the braking you can get, including on the rear. You will also need heavier rear springs for the trailer; and because of that, you will need heavier front springs, so the rears don't bounce the front. And high-quality tires, since they are your only source of contact with the planet while driving this overloaded vehicle. Basically a redesign of the brakes, suspension and road interface.

                Remember that these cars were designed as inexpensive light-duty vehicles to run around in Asia, which is not known for having freeways. And while it can certainly pull a small utility trailer, within reasonable limits--you are exceeding those limits by a lot. Sure you can flat-tow another Festy, but when people do that, do they put their families in here with them? And do they do it for 1900 miles?

                I pulled a 1900-lb trailer from Oregon to WashDC with a 4WD Subaru Loyale, which had better brakes than any Festy ever had, and larger heavier-duty tires, and a suspension set up for a larger heavier car. It was doable--but going up the Rockies on I-70 near Vail, CO, I was at 10 MPH in first gear.

                Then there is the complication of taking care of very small children, away from your normal supply lines and infrastructure; it's not just you two adults. I would urge you to very strongly think abut this whole endeavor. If you can't afford all these basic safety upgrades, forget the whole thing at least until you can.
                Last edited by TominMO; 05-23-2016, 10:02 PM.
                90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                Disaster preparedness

                Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                  Stock Festiva brakes were never designed to stop 3500 - 4000 lbs in normal situations, so how do you think they will do in an emergency? Animals are unpredictable, for example. You should do an Aspire brake swap, because you will need all the braking you can get, including on the rear. You will also need heavier rear springs for the trailer; and because of that, you will need heavier front springs, so the rears don't bounce the front. And high-quality tires, since they are your only source of contact with the planet while driving this overloaded vehicle. Basically a redesign of the brakes, suspension and road interface.

                  Remember that these cars were designed as inexpensive light-duty vehicles to run around in Asia, which is not known for having freeways. And while it can certainly pull a small utility trailer, within reasonable limits--you are exceeding those limits by a lot. Sure you can flat-tow another Festy, but when people do that, do they put their families in here with them? And do they do it for 1900 miles?

                  I pulled a 1900-lb trailer from Oregon to WashDC with a 4WD Subaru Loyale, which had better brakes than any Festy ever had, and larger heavier-duty tires, and a suspension set up for a larger heavier car. It was doable--but going up the Rockies on I-70 near Vail, CO, I was at 10 MPH in first gear.

                  Then there is the complication of taking care of very small children, away from your normal supply lines and infrastructure; it's not just you two adults. I would urge you to very strongly think abut this whole endeavor. If you can't afford all these basic safety upgrades, forget the whole thing at least until you can.
                  Agreed, however, as I said I tried out the brakes with the u-haul I just pulled. I went into this fully expecting to have to install trailer brakes as well as most likely doing a rio swap. When I actually tried it I am satisfied with how quickly it stops that trailer. Like I said, the festiva can stop it just as fast or faster than a newer civic with much larger brakes. When the trailer is built I will try it out. If I need to upgrade the brakes I will, I do not have a problem with that. Think about how large the brakes are on a festiva, how much they can clamp and how much heat they can dissipate compared to the cars weight. Then think about how large the brakes are on a semi and its trailers with 2 53 foot fully loaded trailers. Also how hard that would be to handle in high wind or in collision avoidance. I would say the festiva is much much easier to handle, manouver, control and safely stop than that. When towing a trailer like this you have to drive like you would a loaded semi, not a go-cart. As far as the safety aspect i won't get into that as i get irritated real fast. Lets just say safety in a motor vehicle is an illusion. You are no safer in an f-350 than a festiva, an suv or a smart car. I would argue you are less safe in the larger truck or suv. Anyhow, as for larger vehicles not pulling well a lot of it has to do with the aerodynamics of the trailer and where the vehicles power band is. I have no idea why my civic with double the horsepower pulls the same trailer essentially no better than my festiva but it doesn't. There are complications to doing out of the ordinary things with kids yes, I am aware it is not just us and we are taking our kids. I have thought about this trip for a long time and am now looking for suggestions and what other people think. I will be upgrading the rear suspension as I mentioned, thanks for the tip on why I have to do the fronts as well, makes sense. Any suggestions on the questions I had about the tires? Or what in particular I should do with the suspension?
                  Another way to think about it- I am used to towing. You guys think nothing of doing 160mph in a festiva, there are videos here of you guys racing at insane speeds around a track that I would never dream of and could not do. Ice racing looks pretty risky to me but fathers do it all the time. People talk about street racing all the time. People (not necessarily on this forum) think a festiva or smart car is a death trap but a motorcycle is totally normal and ok to drive. Skydiving with your kids or putting them on a quad and ripping around like a looser is totally normal and accepted but putting kids in a festiva with a trailer behind it isn't. Its all perception and perspective. Anyhow, not to get long winded- in short I will do what needs to be done to make it safe, right now I do not see a rio swap as a priority, but installing trailer brakes may well happen. I will cross that bridge when I get to it, I don't even have a trailer yet.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    "As far as the safety aspect i won't get into that as i get irritated real fast. Lets just say safety in a motor vehicle is an illusion. You are no safer in an f-350 than a festiva, an suv or a smart car."

                    If a Festy and an F350/SUV had a collision, either head-on or T-bone, which would you rather be in? The idea of no absolute safety is a false paradigm; you have to look at where on the sliding scale of engineered-in safety your vehicle is; plus size and weight. In other words, try to move the odds more in your favor. What you do with your own life is entirely your affair, but when you bring your family into it and are minimizing the safety aspect, as it sounds like you are doing, that is highly irresponsible.

                    While you should bring tools obviously, replace anything you think might possibly fail--basic tuneup, belts, hoses, water pump, T-stat, VC gasket, etc--beforehand. If something fails, you might not get access to the needed part for a few days; not to mention the added complication of being between cities when it happens. Or the inconvenience and wasted time of roadside repairs.

                    Still not happy with you driving the "old, tired" B3 with blowby, pulling ~4000 lbs. But a motor failure is not typically dangerous like insufficient brakes, suspension, tires can be. Those have to be addressed, along with the hitch upgrade (and strengthening the car where it attaches); positive thinking does not trump getting the fundamentals right. (Or as the Arabs say, Trust in God, but tie up your camel.)

                    A/C will of course be a further strain, and anyway you will probably be turning it off a lot for hills. You could compensate by doing most of your driving at non-peak temps for the day; plus save the expense of buying and installing it in the first place, and put the money elsewhere. Especially since you said you will not use the car much after the trip.
                    Last edited by TominMO; 05-24-2016, 09:55 AM.
                    90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                    09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                    You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                    Disaster preparedness

                    Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                    Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                      "As far as the safety aspect i won't get into that as i get irritated real fast. Lets just say safety in a motor vehicle is an illusion. You are no safer in an f-350 than a festiva, an suv or a smart car."

                      If a Festy and an F350/SUV had a collision, either head-on or T-bone, which would you rather be in? The idea of no absolute safety is a false paradigm; you have to look at where on the sliding scale of engineered-in safety your vehicle is; plus size and weight. In other words, try to move the odds more in your favor. What you do with your own life is entirely your affair, but when you bring your family into it and are minimizing the safety aspect, as it sounds like you are doing, that is highly irresponsible.

                      While you should bring tools obviously, replace anything you think might possibly fail--basic tuneup, belts, hoses, water pump, T-stat, VC gasket, etc--beforehand. If something fails, you might not get access to the needed part for a few days; not to mention the added complication of being between cities when it happens. Or the inconvenience and wasted time of roadside repairs.

                      Still not happy with you driving the "old, tired" B3 with blowby, pulling ~4000 lbs. But a motor failure is not typically dangerous like insufficient brakes, suspension, tires can be. Those have to be addressed, along with the hitch upgrade (and strengthening the car where it attaches); positive thinking does not trump getting the fundamentals right. (Or as the Arabs say, Trust in God, but tie up your camel.)

                      A/C will of course be a further strain, and anyway you will probably be turning it off a lot for hills. You could compensate by doing most of your driving at non-peak temps for the day; plus save the expense of buying and installing it in the first place, and put the money elsewhere. Especially since you said you will not use the car much after the trip.
                      You always want to be in the bigger vehicle. Maybe one of these days I will do a little writeup on vehicle safety and how that common leading question is incomplete and basically invalid. There is no sliding scale, bigger becomes worse. As I mentioned in my reply to your concerns in the trip thread, the safety aspect is will not be minimized. I agree to do so would be irresponsible.
                      Just wondering, have you ever towed anything with a festiva?
                      All the maintenance will be up to date and anything that would be due even a few thousand or 10k kilometers after we get back will be replaced or done beforehand as there will be a lot more revolutions of the motor for the distance traveled as compared to normal.
                      I am aware that brakes, tires and suspension have to be adressed. That's why I am on here asking questions about it. Still no help yet with my specific suspension and tire questions, you just keep telling me they need to be better.
                      A/c does take a lot of power, I know that. We will do what we can to minimize its use, and it will be off up hills. However I had said I had already bought it. It is something needed to keep the kids comfortable on a trip like this. I have never owned a vehicle with a/c before, its not for me or my wife really, but it wouldn't be fair to have the kids in a super hot car. It doesn't get too terrible hot where we plan to drive through the mountains, what I was concerned about more was southern ontario and the east coast where it can get very hot but is also very humid so it feels even hotter. I plan to sell the a/c again after the trip, I am sure someone else can use it.
                      Last edited by ryanprins13; 05-26-2016, 12:02 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I have a question on tire choice: I cannot find tires locally and 3 different brands of tires are the same price online. I know its been said that nankang, federal and Achilles are the ones to look for, but I haven't heard how they compare. Anyhow, I can get 165/55 14 ACHILLES ATR-K ECONOMIST tires off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-NEW-165-55...dVJuct&vxp=mtr
                        or Federal Formoza FD1 165/55R14 off ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Federal-Fo...lVT~qd&vxp=mtr
                        or Kumho Ecsta PS31 from tire rack for $20 more. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes

                        So out of those which would do the best for this trip? The federal and Achilles are the same price, kumho's a little more but not much. Basically I am looking for good treadware (needs to still be safe after 32,000km), good traction in the rain and not shakey
                        Do any of those handle better than another? I don't need them to handle like you might want on a track or be super stickey for racing, Just has to pull a trailer well and comfortably for 30k.
                        I found 14x6 rims with a dual bolt pattern and 35mm offset. Not 100% sure yet but I think they will work.
                        Thanks for any input

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I noticed that the eBay outlets ship free to the US; not sure what their policy is to CA. Tire Rack does ship to CA, and Kumhos are good tires, have the highest load rating, and should be a little better on treadwear. I'd go with them.

                          Plus you can rotate the tires during the trip if you are starting to get significant wear; but on a 32ooo km trip, I doubt it will even be an issue.
                          90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                          09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                          You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                          Disaster preparedness

                          Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                          Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Personally Not sure about the trailer without at least an aspire swap for the brakes but you'll love the trip! I drive from Victoria BC to Montreal QC twice a year in my festiva. Stock engine is no problems

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TominMO View Post
                              I noticed that the eBay outlets ship free to the US; not sure what their policy is to CA. Tire Rack does ship to CA, and Kumhos are good tires, have the highest load rating, and should be a little better on treadwear. I'd go with them.

                              Plus you can rotate the tires during the trip if you are starting to get significant wear; but on a 32ooo km trip, I doubt it will even be an issue.
                              I have a place in the states i can ship stuff and a guy will cross the border for me and pick it up and bus it here.
                              So 20,000miles is not an issue with these tires? How long are they lasting for you guys?
                              I only ever bought one set of new tires before, 3 days after i bought my festiva. They were 12 in marshall tires and wore right down to the wires in 22,000miles. Never bought a new set again but the junkyard ones dont seem to last all that long and i get my fair share of wheel alignments.
                              I used a set of kuhmo 155 12's that were as hard as a rock and lasted forever but had really soft sidewalls that flexed a lot in the wind and around corners. They might be worth a shot though, anyone tried them?

                              Comment

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