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Oxygen sensor removal with a little help from the hammer....

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  • Oxygen sensor removal with a little help from the hammer....

    I bought the special tool for removing the oxygen sensor ($10). I have been spraying the sensor with pb blaster for a few days before today to get it ready for its removal. So today I put the tool on and with a brakerbar attached to my wrench the stupid tool wouldn't budge the thing and I was starting to round the hex on the sensor. So I looked over the situation, got out my hammer and tapped on the stem part until it broke off. I then put on a 7/8 socket and busted her loose pretty easy. The tool did come in handy in tightening the new sensor down but for taking it off it wasn't good at all. I'm sure it would work fine if you could heat up the area with a torch but I didn't have what I needed to do that. Here is a photo of the end of the sensor and it broke up.
    I was hoping that this would help with my no power 5th gear situation but it didn't. I'm sure it didn't hurt anything.

  • #2
    running the car for a few minutes helps sometimes... just enough to get it hot.
    ~Nate

    the keeper of a wonderful lil car, Skeeter.

    Current cars:
    91L "Skeeter" 170k, Aspire brakes, G15, BP, Advancedynamics coil overs, etc. My first love.
    1990 Kawasaki Ninja 250 - my gas saver, 60+mpg - 40k
    2004 MotoGuzzi Breva - my "longer range" bike - 17k

    FOTY 2008 winner!

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    • #3
      One word:Torch-even its a small yellow Map Gas one from Home Depot for $35.00. Brake bleeders,Brake lines, Suspension Bolts,O2 Sensors etc.If you live in the Midwest and you are a auto mechanic you gotta use em. Pop's taught me that years ago. Its the difference between a 15 min. brake bleed job and replacing the wheel cylinder. I just keep a fire bottle and plant sprayer with water handy. Let the Torch do the hard part- :thumbs_up:
      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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      • #4
        I used an off-set box end wrench on mine. Tapped it with a hammer. Worked great.
        Last edited by BigElCat; 03-15-2014, 09:38 PM.
        '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

        '92 Geo Metro XFi

        '87 Suzuki Samurai

        '85 F150, modded 300cid

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
          I used an off-set box end wrench on mine. Tapped it with a hammer. Worked great.
          Things are pretty rusty up this way.

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          • #6
            Just saying a box end wrench is better than the slotted socket. I tried the slotted socket first, and it didn't work.
            Last edited by BigElCat; 03-16-2014, 11:53 AM.
            '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

            '92 Geo Metro XFi

            '87 Suzuki Samurai

            '85 F150, modded 300cid

            Comment

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